Archive for March 2009

In Style Magazine, April 2009

82. BEST NIGHT CREAM for Normal Skin - Revaléskin.

Infused with coffeeberry extract (an antioxidant that Virginia dermatologist David McDaniel likens to “turbocharged green tea”), this silky formula tackles fine lines and age spots.  We love that it sinks in twice as fast as most other night creams. 

108. BEST NIGHT CREAM for Sensitive Skin - Revaléskin.

Squashing free radicals isn’t the only claim to fame of this antioxidant-rich formula: The grapefruit-scented lotion also soothes redness, softens wrinkles and brightens skin.  And it’s safe to use around the eyes, says N.Y.C. dermatologist Doris Day.

Times Colonist Healthy Living Editorial - February 22, 2009 

What

Let’s begin by looking at the word “cosmetic,” from the Greek word “cosmos” (kosmos) which does not mean beauty.  Instead, it means “order.”  Of course, we are most familiar with this word in terms of the universe being called the cosmos.  The Greeks saw the universe as standing for order - the creation of order (kosmos) out of chaos (Kaos).

We use the word “cosmetic” to apply to anything that serves to enhance or protect our appearance.  In this sense, we are looking for “order.”  Balance, symmetry and harmony are fundamental to this sense of order and in restoring order we tend toward beauty. 

  

Why

Sometimes our skin does not match how we feel within.  We may feel that we look tired, worried or sad when we truly do not feel that way inside - so there is a mismatch.  In part, we are restoring order when we entertain to undergo a cosmetic procedure.  And being not mutually exclusive, looking great can also allow us to feel great - a cliché - but true.

  

When

How to choose from the myriad and sometimes confusing treatment options: It is up to your specialist to ensure you are fully informed of your treatment options.  If you are not sure what to do, you are not ready.  Take a breath and revisit at a later time.  If you are timid, start with baby steps.  Why not start with softening a frowned look, or removing that little red or brown spot or that unsightly mole that has always bothered you but you weren’t sure if it could be treated.

  

Who

Would you call a plumber to fix your toaster?  It makes sense to choose the type of specialist that fits with the type of treatment required.  For example, a facelift is the province of the plastic surgeon; the facial skin is the province of the dermatologist.  “Dermatology” means the study of the skin.  By definition, only dermatologists are trained to fully understand the skin - this is why all other physicians, including plastic surgeons, refer to dermatologists when they have a patient with a skin concern that needs this level of expertise.

How do you know if you are seeing a dermatologist and not just a “cosmetic specialist” or someone trained by a laser company?  Visit the website of the Royal College of Physicians & Surgeons of Canada: www.royalcollege.ca.  Search for Fellows under the Dermatology specialty.

  

Where

An artist needs a full palette to realize his/her inspiration.  Similarly, a cosmetic clinic needs to have a full array of tools, such as lasers, to comprehensively address the aging face.  Your specialist needs to have a blend of artistry and technical ability.  Ask to see before-and-after photos - not just stock pictures - to ensure you agree with his/her sensibilities.  For example, there is a tendency to fill lips to the point of looking like a fish.  Look only for the natural face.  Experience matters.

  

Questions to ask:

What type of specialist am I seeing?

Have I checked www.royalcollege.ca to ensure proper qualifications?

Is the clinic accredited by the College of Physicians & Surgeons to ensure high safety and accountability standards?

Who is performing my treatment - the doctor or a designate?

Experience: Has the doctor just started doing these treatment?

Sensibility: Have I checked before-and-after photos?

Accessibility: What are the doctor’s hours in case I have a concern?

Care: If I have a concern after the treatment, who will be looking after me?

Complications: What type can occur?

Alternative treatment options: Do I have a good understanding of all my options?

Do I feel comfortable with my decision or am I on the fence?  If the latter, I’m not ready and either need more information or should hold off on treating.

Realistic expectations: Am I doing this for the right reasons?  Do I have minimal expectations or do I expect “permanent” or “complete” eradication of my cosmetic concerns?  High expectations are prone to unsatisfactory outcomes.  Keep expectations “real.”

What you need to know.  By Jennifer Blyth, Black Press - Beautiful You Edition

As we climb out of the depths of winter, the lure of the sun’s warmth can be wonderfully tempting.

And indeed, a little - as a vehicle for vitamin D to make its way into our bodies - is good for us.  But too much can cause premature aging and raise the concern of skin cancer.

“While some sun is good, too much can be harmful,” explains Dr. Mark Lupin, of Oak Bay’s Cosmedica.  “Beyond sunburns, excessive sun or tanning leads to premature aging of the skin - a wrinkled appearance and skin sagginess.  Brown age spots can be triggered by the sun as well as light-sensitive conditions such as melasma, a brown discolouration on the face.  Blood vessels may appear in part due to damage to the collagen.  And there is a significantly increased risk of developing precancerous spots called actinic keratoses and skin cancers.”

So, how do you walk the line between enough and too much?

“Like most things, balance is key.  It is important to use a broad-spectrum sunscreen - meaning one that protects against the tanning UVA rays as well as the burning UVB rays,” Lupin explains, advising people to choose a sunscreen with at least SPF 15 and to reapply every two to four hours, as most sunscreens do not last longer than this. 

After the fact, medical grade anti-oxidant creams, such as Revaléskin, are available to help reverse some sun-damage that may have happened during the day.  “Such creams are often best used in the evenings and can also help hydrate the skin,” Lupin says.

In addition, lasers such as the Revlite can be used to treat individual brown spots while lasers such as the Gemini can safely treat unwanted blood vessels, both red and blue.  For a comprehensive approach, the Fraxel laser treats many elements of sun-damaged skin, including premature wrinkles, brown spots and precancerous lesions.  Photodynamic therapy is an office procedure that is useful to treat precancerous spots and with less downtime than prescription creams, Lupin says.

While prevention is the best medicine, diligent monitoring is also recommended.

“Regular monitoring of your skin both at home once a month and by your physician at your regular physical is important to help detect any early evidence of skin cancer.”

So, what’s new in skin care?

While “there have been wonderful advancements in technology to help reverse damages caused by the sun,” in Canada there is no regulation as to who can operate many of these technologies, Lupin says, advising that “because safety is of obvious importance, check with your family physician or a dermatologist before embarking on any elective aesthetic procedure.”

Finally, “while a lot has been written on vitamin D and the beneficial aspects of the sun, we have to keep in mind that there is an increased incidence of skin cancers, of which many are preventable by judicious sun protection,” Lupin says.

“Sunscreens screen - they do not block the sun.  We only need about 10 minutes of sun two to three times per week on an area such as the face or hands to maximize our vitamin D from the sun - more is not better,” Lupin concludes.

“Enjoy the sun but do it with care.”

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